The Essential Toolkit
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The Essential Toolkit - The Complete List
“You think that you make the piece of work, but really, the piece makes you.” – David Binnington Savage
The toolmaker will want to sell you every tool under the sun
But even if they look bright and shiny in the sunlight
You don’t need them all.
Don’t get me wrong. Tools are wonderful to collect. Over the years makers will acquire all manner of planes and chisels and measuring implements. Some will be brand new and super shiny. Others will be pitted with rust from decades of sitting in slightly damp workshops. A rare few may well be made out of exotic hardwoods and look like museum pieces.
But to get going
And to build great furniture
You only need a few well-chosen tools.
My essential tool list has been honed over the years to be the thrity-or-so tools I need each and every day.
I currently keep everything in a 26” Galvanised Metal Stanley Toolbox as I take it around when I work with different makers, but you could keep yours in a smart tool-chest or wall-hung cabinet.
Now, this is not quite a ‘hand-tool-only’ kit. If you want to prepare stock by hand and include challenging details such as grooves and rebates (dados and rabbets, for my American readership), you’ll need a few more specific tools. But this set will get you started.
Edge Tools
No. 5 Bench Plane
I started off using a large No.7 jointer plane, which is still useful for big boards. But for most of the time, when I need to use a bench plane, the No.5 is the perfect plane. It is often referred to as a ‘Jack’ plane, as it can be pressed into service as a fore plane, a jointer or a smoother. It is also light enough for most makers to use comfortably, whatever their level of strength
No. 60 1/2 Block Plane
I have a Lie Neilson 60 1/2, but the Stanley version is just as good and plenty to be found on the second hand market. This has an adjustable mouth which means you can easily adapt the plane to a heavier or lighter cut.
No. 102 Apron Plane
Not strictly necesssary if you have the 60 1/2 above, but a great little single-handed plane for small detailed work. I have the Luban version, form Workshop Heaven in UK
No. 410 Shoulder Plane
I have a Clifton 410, which is also known as a record 041. A good size for adjusting grooves, rebates and so on.
Chisel Set
1/4”, 3/8”, 1/2”, 3/4”, 1”. Nothing wrong with having a whole set in 1/8” increments, but I rarely need any other sizes. If you want to do half-lap dovetails, then a pair of skew chisels is also excellent, but quite job-specific.
Three extra blades
for the No 5 Plane, kept sharpened, in the chisel roll.
Dovetail Saw
This is the only saw I carry, because I can use a bandsaw or table saw for most of my sawing needs. However, a decent half-tenon saw would probably see use if I had one. It is good practice to keep a dovetail saw only for very fine work, and then a second saw for heavier cuts on thicker stock.
Card Scraper
I love a good scraper, but am quite particular about them. A basic, rectangular scraper, 0.6mm thick is the only one I use. This thickness is the sweet-spot for me. It takes a great shaving, but can be easily sharpened and then bent for use. Perhaps if I had some linen fold curved work I would use something rounded, but for most work that needs a scraper, I only need this one.
Measuring and marking:
Pencil Gauge
An old wooden measuring gauge with a 7mm hole drilled in it, to hold a pencil. Often used to mark a line for drilling, screws, etc. Surprisingly, one of my most frequently used tools
Mortice Gauge
In my workshop I have several measuring gauges. It is great to have a few so you can keep them set up throughout a job. Howver, in my essential kit, I carry only one - a mortice gauge that serves all of my gauging needs.
Metal Straight Edge
I have a wonderful 600mm Starrett that says in the workshop toolchest and is treated like glass. It is great to have one straight edge upon which you can really rely. The one I carry is a bevelled edge straight edge from Axmister, but to be honest, you could carefully make yourself a wooden one which would do the job. After all, that is what all the old makers used to do.
600mm ruler, 300mm ruler, 150mm ruler
You can get Shinwa rulers now that ONLY have millimetres and no half-millimetre marks (which are incredibly challenging to read).
5m Stanley Powerlock Tape Measure
I was always taught that tape measures were not to be trusted, but I find this is perfectly accurate, so much so that most of the time I don’t even bother using any of my rulers.
3” Engineer’s Square
Moore and Wright. 3” is a great size for many furniture components, and really light-weight to hold and use.
100mm Combination Square, 150mm Combination Square
These two combination squares are endlessly useful for so many tasks. I got starrett so I can really trust them. Longer ones are useful too, and I have 300mm in the workshop toolkit.
Sharpening Kit
Two oil stones, one leather strop, baby oil and polishing compound. I will use a grinder and water stones back in the workshop, but for a quick sharpen on-the-road, these oil stones are excellent. They do occasionally require flattening (which is a challenge since they are so hard), but not after each use like waterstones.
Tools for whacking and bashing
Black Rubber Mallet
Draper brand. A relic from my childhood - used for driving wooden tent pegs into the ground when I was in the scouts. I have covered this one in leather so it doesn’t mark the wood and I can use it as an assembly mallet. I find a traditional beech joiners mallet to send too many uncomfortable vibrations through my wrist, whereas a white mallet is too soft for hitting chisels. This is the perfect balance.
8oz Japanese hammer
A flat, square-sided head just seems to be infinitely more useful than the traditional western round-headed hammers. you can slide it horizontally along the work, for one thing. I use this one a lot, whereas my round-headed hammers usually get ignored.
A few other bits and pieces
Pliers
Posidriver
Two flathead Screwdrivers
Needle file
Pen knife
Stanley knife
Scalpel (used as an accurate marking knife)
Japanese marking knife
Bench Brush
Candle way to help planes and saws slide easier.
Tools will always be finding their way in and out of this kit - thus is the nature of such things. I do also take another bag around with me that includes things like PPE (ear defenders, dust mask, goggles) a cordless drill and an impact driver with adjustable torque. But with regards to the hand-tools, if you follow this list, you’ll be well set up toto tackle most tasks.
Until next time,
Stay sharp friends,
~sh
Stephen Hickman
Studio Cabinetmaker