Essential Toolkit 3: Saws
I need to be honest here.
Almost all of my sawing is done on the machines.
Now, of course, you can do all your sawing by hand if you want. But in this article we will concern ourselves with the few precision hand saws you’ll need at your bench.
Western or Japanese?
Just like with planes and chisels, I recommend starting with western tools first. Learn the basics, and then you’ll be in a better position to explore the Japanese offerings.
The main difference between western and Japanese saws is that western saws cut on the push and Japanese saws cut on the pull. The western tenon saw (also known as a “backsaw”) has a rigid strip, (traditionally brass) that holds the saw plate taught. It stops it bending as you push it through the stock. Panel saws have a thicker blade and so have no need of this brass back. You’ll want to add a couple of tenon saws to your kit.
Tenon saws
Tenon saws come in various sizes, and are called different things depending on the toolmaker. However, the names I use are:
Dovetail: 10”
Carcase: 12”
Sash: 14”
Tenon: 16”
To get your toolkit started, first look out for a out for a small dovetail saw. Keep this sharp, and use this for your fine box and drawer work. After this, I would suggest a slightly larger carcase or sash saw that you can use to cut larger joints, mortice and tenons, heavier dovetails and so on.
Hand saws
Sometimes you’ll see this called a Hand Panel Saw. They are really useful for cutting boards to length if you can’t get your wood to a machine. I must confess, I go to the DIY store and buy a cheap ‘hardpoint’ saw with a yellow plastic handle and it never seems to go blunt.
Fretsaw or coping saw
These are tensioned across the top with a metal U. The fretsaw is simply a finer version of a coping saw. Both are good for cutting the waste out of dovetail joints and for cutting curves when the curve that you need to cut is too tight for the bandsaw.
A note on saw teeth
You don’t own your saw until you can sharpen it. Sharpening is done with a little triangular file, and sharpening rip-cut teeth is so much easier than sharpening cross cut. Especially on fine saws. So always go for rip cut. Also, never buy a saw with more than 16tpi (teeth per inch). Any finer than this, and you’ll find it practically impossible to sharpen.
As always, there are many many other handsaws you can add. I like a flushcut saw for trimming dowels, and I love a little veneer saw. But these few saws mentioned above will do for most of your furniture and boxwork joinery.
As always,
Stay sharp friends.
~sh
Stephen Hickman
Studio Cabinetmaker